Hanco's

The Porkchop Express had high hopes when Hanco’s opened at the corner of Smith and Bergen. It was a welcomed change of pace in a neighborhood dominated by so-so bistros and increasingly happenin' bars. Still, the big Bubble Tea advert in their window gave me pause (wrong country). Was this one of those Asian-fusion pyramid scheme places, with “Vietnamese-Sino-Thai-Malaysian-etc.” cuisine?

Thankfully no. Almost everything on their modest menu is from the motherland. They offer 6 different sandwiches, including grilled chicken, grilled pork, and sardine, but we were there for the “Classic” only.
Banh Mi always begins with a loaf, and Hanco’s was real nice: toasted golden, and chewy enough to absorb the various flavors lodged inside. But those flavors lacked balance: their Vietnamese ham/paté/“roast” pork combo was just too salty. I say “roast” because I’m just not convinced. This had the look and taste of quick panwork, or excessive microwaving. Their shredded pickle showed a similar carelessness, like they had just tossed some daikon and carrot in sugar-water and forgot about it. Paired with the salty meats, this really wasn’t the Banh Mi I have come to know and love. They did bring the heat, but only from red sauce; there was nary a trace of fresh, crisp chiles. And their cilantro portion was modest at best.

At $4.25, Hanco’s Classic was exorbitantly expensive on the scale of Banh Mi prices. I was hoping for something sportier and more affordable (like a VW), and got “stiffed with a Hummer.” No doubt a reflection of the hood (Boerum Hill, which The New York Times effusively dubbed "a culinary melting pot" last month). But this Banh Mi was pretty ho-hum at any price. It might do in a pinch, or a drunken haze. But this is nothing to wax eloquent on by any stretch of the Earl-magination.




Hanco’s Bubble Tea & Vietnamese Sandwich
85 Bergen Street
Boerum Hill, Brooklyn, NY (718) 858-6818
Classic Banh Mi: $4.25