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Tuesday, April 25, 2006

Thanh Đa Inc. II


Heading to Thanh Da isn’t quite like ducking down a Saigon alley, but it still feels adventurous. For starters, the tiny storefront isn’t on 8th Avenue (as their card claims) but a few doors down 57th Street. They also have a steady stream of customers that, in such close quarters, gave the place a "disco" buzz. Brisk business bodes well with Banh Mi spots, as high turnover usually means fresh sandwiches... and I was ready to do the hustle.

Thanh Da II is run by the same jovial fellow behind the near-identically-named Thanh Da I (around the corner on 7th). He wore a cool hat, and kept the line moving with a constant rotation of bread in the toaster oven, and cups of ice "aching to be filled” with creamy hot Vietnamese coffee.

Thanh Da serves up a yummy sammy for $2.75. The "Vietnamese" ham was probably thick-cut Boar's Head, or a similar New York Deli-style lunchmeat. It provided some smokey goodness, but also a bit too much salt. The pickles were mild, and not too sugary. But BBQ stole the show here: it was deep dark crimson red, with terrific crispy chunks that can only follow slow roasting and careful seasoning. Great stuff, maybe the best of the Sunset Park neighborhood.

Where’s the Pork?

Still… take a look at the picture, and you’ll notice something missing: volume. Specifically, meat. Not enough meat. Now if this were The Lima Bean Express, we might not care. But sweet Jesus, it's not... and we were doubly depressed, given the pork’s tastiness.

In my head I turned to Mr. Jolly Hat and said oh, you tease! But in reality I figured he might get the wrong idea, so I grumbled in silence. Buster Keaton silence. You know, where he already saved the girl, but he's still dead broke and his back is sore, and now she's not putting out.

Seriously, this was a minor shame. Thanh Da has the hard parts down (good fresh ingredients, a way with pork). Just put more stuff in the damn sandwich, and you've got a winner that can ride with any of The Porkchop Express big boys.

As it is, this place is worth checking out especially if you like that crowded, hole-in-the-wall vibe and nice hats. Add another $1.50 for a fine iced coffee, and you could do far worse for less than 5 bucks.




Thanh Đa Inc. II
5624B 8th Avenue
Sunset Park, Brooklyn, NY
Classic Banh Mi: $2.75

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