Little Saigon Cafe

The chipper new kid on the Banh Mi block, Little Saigon Cafe lies on the outskirts of Chinatown in the lower Lower East Side, not too far from Doughnut Plant and the Pickle guys on Grand Street. They opened six months ago, and their space is clean and unusually roomy, with an airy, open kitchen.

Little Saigon's modest menu has some quirky selections, like "Taro Stuffed with Seafood," "Little Saigon Crab Claws," and several gluten arrangements (Vegetarian Chicken Nuggets, Vegetarian Pepper Steak). Their sandwiches also bring the unexpected: 8 choices include both Chinese and Vegan versions. We passed up the veggie Kung Pao and far more tempting "Sugar Cane Shrimp" Banh Mi to give their "Little Saigon" a try.

To be clear, this is strictly a deli sandwich. (There was, lamentably, no BBQ anywhere on the menu.) But they handle their mixed meats with poise. The complimentary selection included a peppery, almost pancetta-styled pork roll; standard bologna-style Vietnamese pork roll; smoked ham; and a sliced chiar-siu flavored roast pork. These cold cuts were neither too thickly sliced nor overbearing in taste. And the entire package blended nicely, thanks to proportions well-suited to the big, dry, toasty loaf.

For what it is, the "Little Saigon" is good. But it lacks a certain something that transports sandwiches from solid snacks to mild obsessions, and that something is usually called nem nủớng. This is nothing to chase down in a panicked Banh Mi frenzy. It is, however, a nice place to stop if you find yourself in the neighborhood in need of a rest and a munch.




Little Saigon Cafe
201 Clinton Street
Lower East Side/Chinatown, New York, NY (212) 228-8233
Little Saigon Sandwich: $3.50